Oliver Lewis

Oliver always sits and thinks for a long time before he begins writing. This is healthy. Daydreaming is an essential part of writing. Whenever your parents say, 'Hurry up, stop daydreaming' you can reply, 'I'm writing.'

As the world finds itself shrinking and the people who are bound to it are discovering the few hidden treasures of it that are left, there will always be one that can never be contained, that will never stand still, only lend itself to those who possess the pure skill to be with it and understand its full beauty. This hidden treaure is the silent yet loud, dark but light, amazing area inside a wave. You can never see it coming, it finds you. The feeling that overcomes you when you float yourself on a piece of foam and hide yourself in a powerful yet peaceful pocket of water, surrounded by its raw intensity, cannot be described, only felt. So many things happen in this place that it can take days to digest what has happened. The strong air gliding through your hair, the echo of the foam behind you, rebounding off the tube of water and into your head, is indescribable. The sunlight that reflects off the crystal clear water under your toes only brightens the amazing view. After this experience, emotions take over you and you throw your body into the air and onto the sand. This amazing place is known as a barrel.

Oliver Lewis

---

Next Story . . .